Home and Dry!

We flew Fox from Ottawa to Nairobi in just over 77 hours (and just over 10,000 miles) in the past 18 days.

Let me say that “Dry” is significant! In round numbers, over 50% of our flying was over water: Bay of Fundy, St Lawrence, Ungava Bay, Hudson Strait, Frobisher Bay, Davis Strait, Denmark Strait, North Atlantic, North Sea, Baltic Sea, Aegean Sea, Sea of Crete, Mediterranean Sea, Gulf of Aqaba, Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden). I admit, I personally prefer Dry (with a Tusker chaser) (even if I do look somewhat smashing in my lobster suit).

My cell phone (lost so I thought in Iceland) turned up again in Goose Bay following its return trip from Wick, Scotland—these lobster suits are busy travelers!)

Fast backward: Yesterday we logged the final 1,000 miles!  Two days in the oppressive heat of Djibouti (spent mainly in the smoke filled indoors of the Sheraton Aden Bay (not the Garden of Eden)—and the multitude of military guests there who all seem to smoke everywhere) had us longing for the fresh air and temperature comforts of Nairobi.  We had learned shortly after our arrival in Djibouti from Jeddah that the heightened security around the Sheraton Aden Bay hotel had a lot to do with the recent passing of the 57 yr old Prime Minister of Ethiopia, and more specifically, the “folks” who could be passing through to Addis for the State funeral.

Of course, our only reason for flying the Addis leg in the first place was to refuel Fox (with that light blue Djibouti gold). The probable hassle of landing in Addis in the current circumstances held zero appeal.  If we could find an alternative refueling stop, we would definitely give Addis a pass. Besides we hadn’t been invited to represent Canada (or Belgium, for that matter) at the State funeral!

Enter Wajir, Kenya (HKWJ) stage left. Waxing in Wajir rather than addling/idling in Addis–No contest! So Wajir got the nod and we prepared to depart Djibouti yesterday morning. We filed the flight plan for Wajir and Nairobi (Wilson) and cooled our heels with Brian Miller and his buddies, Ryan Mueller and Mark Silva (all ATCs with the USN) in the Djibouti Tower. Brian is an aspiring private pilot stationed with several thousand U.S. servicemen and women at Camp Lemonnier, Djibouti. Brian had emailed me the day before saying he noticed our tail # on the apron, looked up the HHF website address on the tail and wanted to meet us. Our pleasure! We chatted with Brian, Ryan and Mark for ½ hour in the Tower while we awaited the arrival of the President of Djibouti returning from the P.M.’s funeral in Addis.

Security was tight! We simply were not allowed to fly until Monsieur Le President had landed and left the airport. When we finally got airborne, the flying itself was uneventful- mainly at FL 10.5 through Ethiopia and along the Kenya/ Somali border before heading more directly south to Wajir.

Northern Kenya was pretty much out of sight due to a cloud layer.  Pity.  We did see some familiar Rendille settlements as we descended to Wajir. We found Wajir to be a very busy airport. It’s a gateway / stopover for Somali— lots of “relief” types with badges milling around. WFP is also visible with tents.  Three Kenyan fighter jets (is it possibly the whole air force?) with canopies open, stood poised for action. However, the only action we were looking for was to get our papers stamped and transfuse the blue stuff into Fox. All of that took about an hour.  I flew Fox out of Wajir and for the remaining daylight hours. We landed at Wilson around 7:30 pm.  Good job Ward finding Wilson in the dark!

Video below–click on site:

Night landing at Nairobi-Wilson HKNW 7:30pm

Hanne and about 20 of our very excited kids/staff welcomed Ward and I at the Aero Club after we finished with customs and parked Fox for the night.  More sodas and Tuskers and fun!

This morning we drove to the project for more greetings. It was great to see the kids again after a three month absence.As good as that reunion was, I simply had to get to Wilson and unload Fox (including 6 empty jerry cans) asap– for my own peace of mind.  So, Ward and I together with James and Gabriel (2 of our Form 4 students and possible Aviation engineering hopefuls) paid Fox a visit and unloaded her. She will now get a well deserved wash and wax and oil change before Hanne and I take to the skies.

About this safari: I’m full of rich and lean memories. Still piecing it all together. I know that this is a very special personal accomplishment—well out of my traditional comfort zone.  I embrace it!  For a private pilot with 250 hrs, all flown within a few hundred miles of Ottawa, this multi- continent adventure is one I will always remember.

This adventure has only happened, first and foremost,  because  of Hanne’s support and encouragement. Thank you darling.

Ward, my professional pilot, got it done with his impressive piloting skills. Thank you Ward and thank you Fox!

Special thanks to my blogmeister buddy, Ted Friesen, who both legged it and blogged it (with financial pledges in between to boot)!

Thank you to Alexandra for always being there and helping your mom and I with HHF—priceless—xo.

And last, but not least, many thanks to all of our very valued and special friends and supporters who keep the spirit, focus and mission of HHF alive!

Together, we can continue to make a difference!

Papa Tango
P>S> Miles for Kids: If I am permitted one wish for all the Miles we covered, it is this: That you will offer your financial support (whatever you can give) to help us continue to educate these kids.   Ahsante Sana.

Find Fox! Clue –Just in front of Djibouti President’s jet arriving in background from Addis

Find the C17 (22000 gals of fuel) overshadowing my Fox

President departing: departed President

Mark, Brianand Ryan ATC USN

Leaving Djibouti

Camp Lemonnier

Ethiopian lugga (seasonal river course)

Ethiopian village

On the Somalia/Kenya border

Wajir and WFP

Welcome at the Aero Club

Welcome at HHFL

Kids’ card

Fox at the Aero Club

Gabriel and James 1st time in an airplane

Fox is cleaned out and sun screened

Never in my wildest dreams did I think that nirvana might be the Sheraton Djibouti!  (even in 37 degree temp–only after Jeddah)! Perhaps I am “rushing to judgment” but  I feel relieved that we escaped Jeddah without any more bruises.

I admit, the northern Saudi landscape en route from Aqaba, as I reported earlier, was an unadulterated joy to witness, and Hussam and the crew at Rabigh were very helpful and hospitable getting us gassed and going (twice). Thanks guys.

But frankly, the rest of my Saudi experience –the in-between stuff— to be honest is something I likely will forget—i.e., no tender moments!.  Jeddah was a culture shock! I admit I like doing Canadian things whether I’m in Canada or not  (like having a cold beer in 40 degree weather). Actually I must confess my range in that category is likely anywhere between -40 and +40.

The life in Jeddah undoubtedly works for millions on a whole bunch of different levels, just not this traveler and not in this antique land. The Sheraton Djbouti on the other hand feels more North American (sure the lobby  is full of Americans and Europeans—(here fighting al Qaeda, I think). You can order a cold Tusker (Kenyan) here as well!  Shallow, admittedly, but a cold beer is something I really missed in 40+ weather in Jeddah over the past 3 days.

I also missed my fresh ground coffee (only Nestle’s instant coffee was available).

Anyway, let’s focus on today’s 8  hour (660 nm) flying adventure from Jeddah to Rabigh return and then from Jeddah to Djibouti!

It actually started yesterday (Friday) when Ward and I were sitting in the lobby of the Orchid hotel (airline crews stay there and as Ward and I had a “crew permit” we had to play the part!). We were pondering the state of the nation, including how to get some gerry cans to carry extra fuel with us from Rabigh to Jeddah to top off our wing tanks before we departed for Djibouti.

Yunus (a Bangladeshi bellhop aka “gunner” (how about BB gunner) had already demonstrated his prowess in exchanging some $US for Saudi—for his tip! I made a spur of the moment decision to reach out to Yunus one more time. “ Yunus, any chance of getting us a couple of gerry cans?”  Yunus: “Yes sir, no problem–what size and color and would 15 minutes be too long to wait?”  I love this guy!
So, yes, we got the gerries and we were now ready to face whatever additional jinxes Jeddah might try to throw at us on Saturday as we set out on our round robin via Rabigh.

This time however we would be one step ahead—we would have paid our handling/gov’t airport fees before we left Jeddah (atrocious for small piston pilots), and cleared Customs,  so all we needed to do was to fly back to Jeddah, top off the tanks (by hand pump on the ramp—spillionaires don’t do stoop to this piston pumping) and take off for Djibouti.

It all happened like clockwork.  We departed Jeddah (rwy 34L) around noon for what turned out to be a 5 hr 40 min. flight to Djibouti. I flew Fox off 34L in a 240 degree crosswind blowing at 15 kts. Left aileron down into the wind with right rudder to compensate, and it all worked out.

From liftoff for the first hour we had some good sightseeing. After that at both 7,500’ and 9,500’ with Fox purring along at an average of 125 kts., we saw nothing in the haze/sand laden cloud on the 3 hour flight over the Red Sea. I later learned from Moktar, our guy on the ground here in Djibouti, that Somali pirates also work the Red Sea. Good thing we didn’t see them or vice versa because of the overcast!

It was only when we descended to and broke out of the sand bag haze around 3,000’ and 20 mile final for rwy 09 at Djibouti did we have any visual reference to the landing runway.  Ward is instrument rated and does this stuff blind and with ease. Me,  not so fast. I like seeing the ground at all times!

[Video below--click on to view]

Night Landing at Djibouti Runway 09–Sept 1st

We landed and taxied to a lonely part of the field. Fox would spend what could be the last night of her safari to Kenya alone. I owe her a lot and I will give her a pat on the back and get her something special for keeping us safe (maybe a new battery)! She’s a mission specialist and she has shown us real heart over the past 2 weeks.

Today marks close to 70 hours of flying since we started from Ottawa 2 week ago and now we are 90% there!

Thanks Fox. Thanks Ward– and thanks to all of you who have been flying with us.
Of course, it’s not over yet, and tomorrow is another long (likely 7 hour) flying day.
We will do our best to make the last day very special as we head towards Nairobi, Kenya.

Papa Tango

Part 1

We landed in Jeddah from Aqaba.  We knew we could only enter Saudi through Saudi Customs in Jeddah even though our raison d’etre for Saudi was avgas not sightseeing in 40+ degree weather.  Fox likes the cooler climates (15-24 degrees in Nairobi will be more to her liking and mine).

Rabigh is the only place in Saudi where you can buy avgas, and it is a 14 gallon backtrack from Jeddah (we passed Rabigh en route to Jeddah).  Remember the 14 gallons for later!

While we are on memory lane—you may remember the avgas info we got in Graz, Austria? “There is no avgas in Saudi!”

In fact, Rabigh Academy (flight school) has 75,000 litres of avgas at all times. A Saudi Prince owns the Academy so there is little (correction) NO chance that his flight school fleet of 18 pistons will ever run short.

I am forced to consider, nay, conclude that the yet unidentified gentlemen reporting from Saudi to Bo, our trip agent in Denmark, about the Saudi avgas crisis was smoking something on the job (had some potent /illegal substance brewing in his water pipe).  Besides, how can Saudi be out of anything gaseous?

Well here’s the true story based on my own observations on the ground in Rabigh.
Visualize a former military airstrip now exclusively used by the flight school—well almost! Periodically 20+ Lamborghini affecionados show up on a weekend (a  1+hour motorcade from Jeddah) to peddle the metal (likely gold plated) on this 3km straightaway called OERB ! I don’t own one but I’m told by reliable eyewitnesses that these little Lambs can flash by in a wink!  Fox-did you ever in your wildest dreams think you would visit the home of such privilege?
I’m getting ahead of myself and I should know better.  As John Porter, chief flight instructor at the Ottawa Flying Club, used to remind me—“stay ahead of the plane” (i.e. be 2-3 steps ahead of what you have to do in each phase of flight so you are not forced to play catch up at an inconveniently bad time).

So the day before yesterday, August 29, we landed in Jeddah for the first time. We had a “crew permit” arranged that enabled us to overnight before we flew to Rabigh for fuel the next day. We even flight planned (with the blessing of Saudi Customs and Immigration) to depart Rabigh direct to Djibouti (with full tanks)!

Rabigh is about ½ hr flight from Jeddah (OEJN). We had about 1 hour of fuel (we were legal) when we departed OEJN for Rabigh around 9:30 am and we landed without incident.
We had a tour of the flight school  which about 200 students currently attend (some more frequently than others)—impressive digs. Students (correction- their parents) pay about US$85K for the 20 month long course to get a commercial pilot license.

Part 2

With the tanks filled, we said goodbye to the good folks at OERB and headed back south en route (so we thought ) to Djibouti. Our initial contact with Jeddah air traffic control quickly disabused us of that notion (without, I might add, any semblance of humanity, even after we explained we had received clearance to fly direct). “No, you are not approved to go direct from Rabigh to Djibouti”.

There was little or no choice. We had to return to Jeddah and clear customs (again) before departing for Djibouti ( unless, of course, we wanted to risk a Top Gun encounter with the Saudi Airwing).

This bad news was not without some consequences (the cost of each landing at OEJN is to put it mildy–princely – not, of course, for Saudi Princes aka spillionaires -just for yours truly—I will say no more). The flight consequences –we had to use 14 gallons of precious fuel earmarked for the Djbouti leg to divert to Jeddah. So to have the range to get to Djibouti from Jeddah with 14 fewer gallons, we now needed a favorable tailwind at altitude.

Cutting a long story short—we landed and filed a new flight plan from Jeddah and took off for Djibouti . We were over the Red Sea and about an hour out of Jeddah and running into an unexpected headwind.  We didn’t have the fuel to make Djibouti even doing our best to get the best performance out of Fox (remember she has a big heart but the high temps were sapping her performance #s). Even our best scenario put us about 30 minutes short of Djibouti. There were 2 options: take our chances of landing in Eritrea and hoping to find avagas (without of course the presence of any armed chappies) or return to Jeddah. Guess what!

I took off my headset as Ward turned Fox around for Jeddah. I was trying to be philosophical but I was getting really tired of the Jeddah Saudi experience (hassle/red tape and expense, with likely more to come).

The only thing we really accomplished yesterday was some picture taking to Rabigh) and the leg back to Jeddah when we turned around en route to Djibouti over the Red Sea. Chalk it up to experience.

It’s Friday in Jeddah (a Muslim religious day-closed). We can’t get fuel in Rabigh because the Fire Brigade doesn’t work at OERB on Friday.

With any luck we will be in Djibouti late day tomorrow—after we fly from Jeddah to Rabigh to refuel yet again. This time however, we will also carry an extra 15-20 gallons of avgas in gerry cans in the cabin so we can top off the tanks with the “difference maker” when we land back in Jeddah to clear Customs hopefully for the final time! In hindsight, sure wish we had carried the gerries yesterday to top off at Jeddah because we would be reporting today en route from Djibouti. Oh Well, things sometimes happen for a reason!

All we need now is the extra gas and a favorable tailwind or at the very least, no strong headwind!
Wish us luck on all accounts. 80% of our trip is completed and we expect to be in Nairobi on Monday after  an overnight tomorrow in Djibouti and an overnight on Sunday in Addis.

Quite the experience!

Papa Tango

Video–click on below

Departing Aqaba

My first “in flight” blog:   We are level at Fl 150 (15000’MSL) in Saudi airspace as I write this.  Our heading is 180 degrees; indicated airspeed is 110kts; Fox is burning 12.5 gals/hr and we are about 400 nm from Jeddah (we just established radio contact with Jeddah).  I took Fox off from Aqaba and got us established in the climb and now Ward is flying her with his usual skill (just in case you might have any concern about someone typing while flying!)

You won’t believe (and I cannot adequately describe) this moving feast for the eyes! WOW! I have been on the ground at the Grand Canyon and flown over it FL 300+ a few times, but the kaleidoscope of shapes and colors we are witnessing here is as grand as the Grand or better–simply out of this world.

So while I’m getting my fill of (satiating my appetite for) this landscape, let’s rewind the clock to the start of our day. Khaled handles maintenance for the Royal Aero Sports Club of Jordan (our wonderful host in Aqaba). Royal Aero is tied to the Ayla Aviation Academy next door. Khaled was on form yesterday and again this morning when he retrieved us from the Hilton (think of a chap with ready smile and a light and easy sense of humor). Ward and I stayed at the Hilton in downtown Aqaba last night and enjoyed a very tasty fresh fish dinner (with a beer for yours truly—Ward ordered soda –doing his strict professional pilot thing!).

We bantered and chuckled with Khaled as we headed for the Club this morning, expecting to be airborne within the hour around 9:00 am. Ward had filed a flight plan for Jeddah last night. The route filed was 590 nm (direct it would be have 529 nm).

By way of background–we flew 5 hrs and 37 minutes from Crete to Aqaba yesterday, burned 69 gals of avgas at a rate of 12.5 gals per hour and landed with a one hour reserve (13 gals).  The maximum safe range for 48Fox is about 700 nm.
We had just said goodbye to Khaled and I had started the plane and was about to do the run-up. Just then, Aqaba Tower came on the radio to inform us that our IFR flight plan to Jeddah was not approved by Saudi ATC.  Apparently a VFR flight plan to Jeddah is out of the question (9/11?)

Then things started to get interesting! We were given 2 options: (#1) a route of 792 nm @FL 150 or (#2) the plan Ward filed but we would be at FL 250. ‘TILT” Thanks but no thanks! (#1) was beyond the best endurance of 48 Fox (700 nm) and (#2) was about 7,000 ‘ above the climb capability/ceiling of 48Fox.

We shut down and headed inside. What followed was some serious chart gazing, analysis and discussion about route planning between Ward and Ahmad, Operations Mgr. of Ayla Aviation.  Zaid. the Head of Ayla Maintenance also got on the phone to assist.  Thanks guys!

We simply had to find to a doable plan to get us further south and more importantly get us fuel we needed when we needed it. We were cautioned not go to Cairo for fuel under any circumstances. Three hours of phone calls, deliberations and other machinations finally got us back on track—basically with the same flight plan (within 50 nm of the plan) that Ward filed yesterday!!
What happened?  Who Knows! The powers that be I guess realized the original flight plan was the only viable option.  There was no reason we could think of, apart from a military exercise,  that should cause ATC to cancel the first flight plan—traffic as we have come to realize en route at this Flt level is nonexistent and there are no apparent air traffic conflicts.

What we are finding today en route apart from the magnificent topography is relative peace and quiet while we enjoy the fabulous Saudi landscape. What a relief it is for us to cruise along and not have to listen to the seriously overworked Cairo Air Traffic controller(s) transmitting and receiving calls every other minute!

Hope you enjoy also the scenery!

Signing off at FL 150 about 129 nm from Jeddah (breathless from the view but with my oxygen on).

Papa Tango

Fox at rest with Eilat Israel in the background

Dressed up for the Saudi leg

Looking at possible flight plans for Jeddah

AYLA Academy (flight school)

Ammar and Khaled at AYLA

Climbing out after takeoff in Aqaba

Israel on left

Heading into Saudi

Spectacular scenery everywhere

Over Saudi

Over Saudi 2

Over Saudi 3

Over Saudi 4

Over Saudi 5

Desert style agriculture

Heading south to Jeddah at FL 150

Over Saudi 6

Over Saudi 7

Over Saudi 8

Over Saudi 9

Over Saudi 10

Over Saudi 11

Over Saudi 12

Fox is parked at Jeddah OEJN

Our day started early. Crete was already hot and humming when I got down to the hotel lobby and a breakfast of fresh fruit, toast, a fried egg and coffee.  What a good start and a distinct improvement over yesterday’s meager intake!

Saying hello to Anne and Robin (Maritimers EH!) also checking out of the hotel was a good omen for whatever else might lay ahead of us today.

Do you remember the last time you had a big accordion style airport bus chauffeur you anywhere (let alone to your own plane)? Only in Crete–I say!
We refueled (it’s definitely cheaper in Crete than Graz, but Nis still has it). Ward paid extra attention to the tanks—getting them really topped off.  We knew we had enough fuel on board to get to Aqaba, Jordan (OJAK) unless routing changes (air traffic controllers) and adverse winds might dictate otherwise and force us to divert to say Cairo airport. We would be passing through their terminal control area but didn’t want the inevitable hassle of going there for avgas.

I remember doing a walk around (checking the plane) before we took off and wondering if it had started to rain. The overflow valve of the left wing tank was dripping and the strong winds off the water were blowing the gas drips around with abandon.  Ward has definitely filled the tanks to the brim!

Crete is a place where one could spend more time, but the handling /logistics and permits required to overfly or land in the different countries kept us focused on the timelines ahead and today would be another long day of flying. We departed Rwy 25 again (this time in daylight) and swung around and headed off across the Mediterranean to the coast of Egypt. I have to say that the scenery on today’s 5 ½ hours of flying was in the same league for me as the Greenland ice cap!

Crossing into Egypt, over and near historic places with familiar names I had heard about but had never seen—the Red Sea; Suez canal and the Sinai Peninsula to Khalij Al’ Aqaba (Gulf of Aqaba). I particularly loved the sights of the Sinai Peninsula, naturally raw / majestic and for me just out of this world!

I haven’t seen the videos we took and I won’t have time tonight to download and/or upload them, so bear with us. Today’s pictures give you a good sense of what we witnessed up close.  We will add more as more become available!! (over to you Ward).

So in a word, the flight across Egypt (apart from the constant radio “chatter” between Air traffic controllers and pilots flying at Fl 330+—which you can’t tune out even if you want to) was just Brilliant!! (and the weather for flying was also 5×5).

We initially flew at FL 110, then climbed to FL 150. Air traffic control radioed to say we had the choice of descending to FL 130 or climb to FL 170 (17,000’MSL) because of a military exercise. We chose Fl170 because we were looking for the best altitude and power settings to minimize our fuel consumption and give us the range to complete the mission. Oxygen was mandatory at this level.
48Fox is happy at FL 150 (15,000’MSL):  With manifold pressure (MP) set at 17; and tach at 2300, we are burning 12-13 gals/hr and getting 120+ kts true airspeed. (Ward will confirm).

At FL 170, we were burning even less (between 10-11 gals/hr). It’s fuel economy but a tad too high for this sightseeing guy from Ungava Bay.  Wearing an oxygen mask is fine when necessary, but I frankly prefer to breath normally and fly lower!
Flying at any of these altitudes is something very few travelers get to do (and particularly at this speed) so we felt very privileged to have had the opportunity today to experience and enjoy the miles upon miles of this spectacular scenery.
Coming up over the Gulf of Aqaba and descending to land at OJAK is unforgettable!

I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.

Tomorrow, we are heading to Saudi Arabia.

Papa Tango

P.S. Just sharing an email I received today!

“Dear Baba Ted
The excitement here is beyond what I can say. The kids and everyone adore you for the energy and ‘fire in the belly’ you have in taking on such a difficult course. It makes me the happiest teacher– seeing how our kids take turns to read out loud the posts to their friends in the lab. Apart from building their self-esteem, it is making them wonderful readers following the rich vocabulary that you are applying in them. And their love for photos goes a mile further. They are placing them as their desktop wallpapers and it’s so colorful you won’t believe it.
 We all wish you all the best.
Teacher Isaiah (HHFL)

(Working with the HHFL kids to improve their written and spoken language skills is something I really enjoy. They are learning the importance of speaking and writing clearly and succinctly. “Fire in the belly” is an expression they have often heard me use.  Dream and achieve!)

P.P.S My missing cell phone has been found in some guy’s abandoned lobster suit in Wick Scotland!